Clicking that won't stop, a burner that never warms up, or one that's stuck on high. If you're cooking on half a cooktop, we'll get all of it working again. Gas, coil and smooth-top.
Ignition, flame and valve problems
Element, socket and switch problems
Radiant element and control problems
Recognize your cooktop in one of these? Here's what's usually going on underneath.
Constant clicking or no spark usually points to a dirty or failed igniter, spark module or switch.
A burned-out element, loose terminal or failed infinite switch can leave an electric burner cold.
An electric burner that only runs full blast usually needs a new control switch.
Clogged burner ports, misaligned caps or a valve problem can cause a low or yellow flame.
Control board, touch panel or lock-out issues on smooth-top models.
A stuck switch or limiter can leave the hot-surface light on after cooking.
Call, text or book online.
We test the igniters, elements and controls.
You get the price first.
Every burner tested before we leave.
Usually moisture or crumbs on the igniter (a boil-over will do it), a cracked igniter, or a worn spark switch. If it doesn't stop after things dry out, it's time to call us.
A cracked glass top usually needs the glass panel replaced. Stop using it and call us for an assessment.
Call (980) 300-7779 or book online.
Get every burner back. New customers save $20 on the first repair.
(980) 300-7779
Monday - Friday: 8:00 AM - 4:00 PM
Saturday: 9:00 AM - 2:00 PM
Sunday: Emergency Calls Only
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